How To Build A LiPo Battery Pack

How is a LiPo battery pack made?

Here are the things and tools that are required in this process.

For the instruments you need:

1.A fastening iron (30W is adequate)

2.Weld

3.Side shaper

4.Plier

5.Wire stripper

6.Box shaper or utility blade

7.Kapton tape

8.Heatshrink tubing (5mm and 50mm (discretionary if you need to cover the pack))

9.Lighter or heat gun

10.Equalization charger/lipo charger

For the structure materials you need:

1.LiPo battery cells

2.Female XT60 connector or the red T-type connector

3.Silicone elastic or other high temperature 16 AWG - 12 AWG (red and dark) 15cm each shading

4.Equalization link, I utilized an information link that had the adjusting connector on it

Stage 2:

Let's Get Building! The Cells

Let’s picked 4000 mAh 8C cells and utilize it with a BLDC engine that draws 15A. The greatest current a battery can supply is its C rating increased by its ability, that makes my battery equipped for conveying 8*4000/1000 = 32Amps putting my 15A engine inside a sheltered point of confinement.

We chose to accuse every cell independently of the USB charger load up appeared in stage 1 so it's reasonable once amassed and won't give the equalization charger trouble.

First, we evacuate the defensive tape at the highest point of the battery to uncover the release tabs. Under the tape, you might discover a security circuit. We can start to desolder the release tabs from the wires or the security circuit if present. You'll have to do this for all cells. You ought to do this as quickly as conceivable to abstain from harming the battery and lessening its ability with the welding iron's warmth.

Stage 3:

Cell Arrangement and Soldering

I'm going for a 3S1P setup, so I mastermind the cells so they exchange direction every cell so the positive terminal of one cell contacts the negative of another. Ensure you DO NOT short out to cells together by interfacing them + cell1 to - cell2 and - cell1 to +cell2. Unfurl the tabs to have the option to bind the cells together. When you're alright with the course of action, tape the cells together to enable you to bind. Bind the tabs together, again rapidly to keep away from harm and limit misfortune.

Stage 4:

Wiring Preparation

Measure the adjusting link from the furthest tab of the battery, at the edge you need the wires turning out until just before the finish of the battery by 2 cm and cut. Do likewise for the release leads yet this time account for the XT60 connector length (which I neglected to do) and have it end by the battery's end.

Split the adjusting link and cut every individual wire to arrive at the tabs without having slack. The wiring request is as per the given schematic. Strip a little length of each wire and tin it.

Stage 5:

Solder All

Patch every one of the wires to the battery cells as appeared in the schematic. Still, be brisk on the adjusting link, don't stress as much however over the release leads as the wires themselves will suck a portion of the warmth yet don't be excessively moderate.

Stage 6:

Time to Test

Wrap the links just as the cells with tape to give some pressure help to the tabs. I picked covering all the bind joints with Kapton tape to stay away from short circuits and I let it be known, for the looks as well. If all went great, this is the best time to enclose the entire battery by huge warmth recoil, a report on that soon.

Stage 7:

Done!

The process is finished now.

After its full process let’s find out how many cells are in lipo batteries?

How many cells are in a LiPo battery pack?

Let's share the cells of the lipo battery pack on different volts:

1.3.7 volt battery = (1S)

2.7.4 volt battery = (2S)

3.11.1 volt battery = (3S)

4.14.8 volt battery = (4S)

5.18.5 volt battery = (5S)

6.22.2 volt battery = (6S)

These are the details of the cells, 1S means 1 cell, 2S means 2 cells and 6S means 6 cells gradually.

When do you need a LiPo battery pack?

Limit of lipo batteries:

For instance, an RC Lipo battery that is evaluated at 1000 mAh would be released in one hour with a 1000 milliamp load put on it. If this equivalent battery had a 500 milliamp load put on it, it would bring 2 hours to deplete down. On the off chance that the heap was expanded to around 15,000 milliamps (15 amps), an exceptionally normal current channel in a 400 estimated RC helicopter while drifting, an opportunity to deplete the battery would be just around 4 minutes.

C rate/discharging rate:

Practically all Lithium Polymer batteries you purchase today will accompany a 'C' rating. The 'C' in C rating represents Capacity. The C rating is the greatest, sheltered, nonstop release pace of a pack as determined by the producer, so when you see 20C imprinted on your mark, it implies it very well may be released at multiple times the pack's capacity, “continuously". The limit is generally estimated in mAh and a mainstream cell size is 2200mAh. In this way, so by method for instance:

2200mAh 20C Cell = 2.2A x 20 = 44A consistent release

Alongside the constant release rate, a few batteries are shown 'burst' release rate. This is normally double the persistent release rate. It, for the most part, implies the battery is prepared to do permitting double the current, however just for a couple of moments one after another.

Lithium Polymer batteries come somewhat charged and are essentially more unstable than the soluble, Ni-Cd or Ni-MH batteries utilized in RC applications. Here are a few rules for utilizing lipo batteries.

Bottom line:

Lipo batteries are also chargeable batteries that are giving almost the same function and work. Consider them for efficient work.